4/07/2007

A Range Report

I know, I know. I said it would be a while before I got to range test my alterations to the PLR & 1911, but I decided to head out to the range this evening on a lark. So here's a little range report.

1.) The new Levang Linear Muzzlebrake - Functions very well. It projects the majority of the PLR's throaty roar down range. The muzzle flip reduction was moderate. It was less effective in reducing the muzzle rise than the Veriforce Tactical muzzlebrake, but it had none of the annoying side effects of that muzzlebrake. There was one interesting side effect of this muzzlebrake's forward facing ports... I had just finished firing a new pistol (detailed below) for the first time, so I had the target spooled down to only about 8 yards away when I loosed the first tentative shot through the new muzzlebrake just to see how it acted. The forward ported gas was sufficient to blast a fist sized hole through the target that had already been perforated by the other pistol. That was enough to make me giggle. All in all, if you are looking for a muzzlebrake for your PLR-16, I'd heartily suggest this one.



2.) The polish job on the 1911's feed ramp - This functioned much better than I had hoped. I fired 150 rounds through the freshly polished gun without a single mis-feed. While I was polishing the feed ramp, I also polished the slide's mating surfaces. This made the slide's action smooth as silk. This is definitely one fine shooter now. If you have any semi-auto pistol with feeding problems, a polish job on the feed ramp may well solve your problem. Here's how I did it. I took my Dremel tool and mounted a polished wheel (small white felt wheel that fits on a screw spindle). First I load the polishing wheel up black emery bar to remove the worst roughness. This does remove some material so use it very sparingly. Once I'm satisfied that the worst roughness has been removed, I thoroughly clean the area I'm polishing. I then load up a new polishing wheel with white rouge and begin working the area with that. Once satisfied, I change the wheel again, clean the work area again and finish the job off with blue rouge bar. Once I'm finished, the surface has a mirror finish. What in the hell would I do without my Dremel tool?



3.) We hit a gun show the other day. I picked up a batch of ammo, a nice bipod for my FN-FAL and this for the Mrs.:



It's a Polish P-64 in 9mm Makarov. This is the pistol that perforated the center of the target with, that the muzzle blast of the PLR popped out. I have to admit, I had under estimated this little gun! The recoil from those dinky looking rounds is surprisingly vigorous. With a barrel only about 3¼" long, this thing is not going to be making tight groupings at 50 yards, but it is actually more accurate than I gave it credit for. On a close target (8 yards) I was easily putting all the rounds under an area about the size of my fist. At 15 yards I was having no problem keeping it on the target. There's one last thing I have to cover... The Warsaw Pact countries seem to have known a thing or two about making a gun easy to disassemble for cleaning. To tear this one down, all you do is pull the front of the trigger guard downwards, then pull the slide all the way to the rear; tip the back up and then slide it back forward off of the frame. All in all I have to say, due to it's sub-compact size and acceptable accuracy; one of these guns would make a very suitable concealed carry piece.

I've noticed a lot of interest in my PLR-16 related posts. Here is a list of other PLR-16 posts I've made:
  • Father's Day & Some Product Endorsements
  • More on my PLR-16
  • A Few Reviews
  • My PLR is Finished
  • 40 Rounds, 50 Yards
  • My New Kel-Tec PLR-16
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      3/23/2007

      My PLR is Finished

      Well I've finally gotten all of the parts in to finish assembling my PLR-16 in the configuration that I wanted to get it into (mostly). Here are a few pictures:


      I've attached the Kel-Tec standard front hand grip. This has allowed me to relocate the laser designator to the picatinny rail molded into the bottom of the hand grip. Initially I was concerned that perhaps the hand grip would be too loose to serve as a stable base for the laser designator. After it arrived and was attached however, I was rather pleased to see that it is indeed quite rigid once it's in place. After installing the designator in its new location, I bore sighted it with the laser bore sighter. I then smacked, tugged, pulled, pushed and otherwise abused the hand grip in an attempt to alter the designator's alignment... All to no avail. No matter how hard I tried, the hand grip remained stable and the bore sight setting remained unchanged.

      In addition to the front hand grip, I've also added a stylish anodized aluminum compensator that I picked up from Veriforce Tactical in Phoenix Arizona for $19.99 (note: shipping was only $.10!). The PLR-16 barrel is threaded to accept standard AR-15 flash suppressors and muzzle brakes (½" x 28TPI). Installation was a simple matter. I simply unscrewed the stock thread protector and twisted the new muzzle brake on with a little high temperature loctite. I did however use a very small amount of the loctite because I was debating purchasing one of these 5½" muzzle brakes just to see what in might look like on this gun. Anybody have any opinions?




      Now it's time for me to engage in a little rant. There was one more accessory that I wanted to mount on this gun to make it just right... A vertical fore-grip. Unfortunately, after consulting experts, I've been told that adding a vertical fore-grip to this gun would be a federal crime! You have got to be kidding me! So I took a vertical fore-grip I had laying around and set it against the gun to give you all an idea of how cool this would have looked. Let me reiterate what I just said for those with reading comprehension problems. The fore-grip IS NOT ATTACHED, merely set adjacent to the forearm of the pistol for the purpose of snapping a picture.

      Attaching a vertical fore-grip to a pistol turns it into a NFA-regulated Class III, "Any Other Weapon". How in the hell does attaching a purely aesthetic appliance to a firearm make it any more dangerous than it already is? These ignorant sons of bitches banning guns simply because they are scary looking are going to make my fucking head burst! Logic just is not their strong suit!

      With that out of my system, let me address some of the e-mails I've gotten in regards to my posts about this gun.

      First, no, this is not a machinegun nor is it one of your dreaded assault rifles. Just because a gun looks scary does not mean that it is an evil machinegun or an even an evil assault rifle. It does not fire full-auto, only semi-auto, Further, it is a pistol and not a rifle.

      Second, let me respond to the question "why do you need such a thing?" with a few questions of my own... Why do you need an expensive car? Why do you need a jet ski? Why do you need high-end graphite golf clubs. The answer is the same in all four cases. You don't need them, but you garner enjoyment from having them and one of our ineanlienable rights in this country is the pursuit of happiness. On another note, you are far more likely to be killed by a car (expensive or otherwise) than you are by a gun of any kind and I don't see too many people clamoring for cars to be banned.

      Lastly let me respond to the question "What would you use that thing for?" I'd use it for target shooting and home defense.

      I have yet to test fire the gun in its new configuration. That will be accomplished this weekend. I have a rather full bill of items to test out this weekend.



      I picked up a Yugo 59/66 SKS at the last local gun show. I've finally managed to divest the thing of all of the gooped on cosmoline, so it's time for a test firing. Eventually it will be stripped down, reconfigured with the requisite compliance parts and fitted with a new stock for my wife to use.

      The other item I'm going to try out is this:


      This may look like a run-of-the-mill M1911 pistol, but it does have some very interesting features. First off if you look at the slide, you'll see the inscription "Remington-Rand Inc. Syracuse, NY, U.S.A.", but if you look at the frame, you'll see "Interarms Silver Cup". What this means is that this is pretty much a parts pistol... However all of the parts of this pistol except the frame and the plastic hand guard slab on the side facing the camera all appear to be original 1940's vintage military parts. The fit on all the parts is extremely tight (no wobbling) and the action and trigger are very smooth. The rifling in the barrel is sharp. I managed to talk the pawn shop owner into a sale price of two bills, so how could I go wrong? The history behind these particular pistols is interesting. My research indicates that Interarms found a bunch of original WWII era 1911's caked in cosmoline and stowed in crates in England a few years back. The guns were sold to England during WWII to equip British troops for the invasion of Normandy. When Interarms tried to import them, the BATF of course would not allow them to without first demilling them (oxyacetylene torching the frames). (Again more gun grabbing ignorance!!! Destroying historical relics!) So Interarms imported the remaining pieces and assembled them on new frames. My research indicates that these guns can be pretty much hit or miss in terms of quality, but nothing I've seen in regards to this pistol seems dodgy, so we'll see how she behaves at the range this weekend. At the very worst, I've picked up a low-price tuner 1911.

      I've noticed a lot of interest in my PLR-16 related posts. Here is a list of other PLR-16 posts I've made:

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